21. Colours of Africa: A visit to Ghana: A trip to El Mina Castle/Fort , Cape Coast

Elmina Castle is an old Portuguese Fort built in 1482 situated on the coast of the Gulf of Guinea about 10 km west of Cape Coast.  The Fort derives its name from the Portuguese word “Mina” with “El Mina” meaning “the Mine”, perhaps in recognition of the Gold found in mines close and originally called the Gold Coast (the name given by Europeans to Ghana).

 The Fort was built after a Portuguese trader Azambuja took permission from the local Chief Kwamin Ansah (called “Caramansa” by the Portuguese) after convincing the Chief (Nana) of the great advantages in building a Fort would bring to the Chief’s kingdom, including the protection of the Powerful Portuguese King. The Chief was wary of the Portuguese intentions, but upon persistent Portuguese negotiations, including several gifts as well as veiled threats, Kwamin Ansah agreed to the Portuguese conditions.

Thereafter, the Portuguese brought pre-fabricated construction material in ships along with a garrison and workers numbering about 600 soldiers and men. It is accordingly, the first pre-cast building to have been planned and constructed in sub-Saharan Africa.

The Portuguese to build the Fort demolished and burnt several huts/residences of the villagers compensating them to a small extent. The Portuguese also broke some rocks which were worshipped by the local villagers, leading to armed skirmishes which led to several protests but the Fort was eventually built, despite the opposition of the villagers.

 (There is a similar Slave Fort known as Keta situated near the border of Togo near the Keta Lagoon which is the lesser known Slave Fort and has since fallen into a state of disrepair). El Mina is also known as "Sao Jorge da Mina" (or “St. George of the Mine”) or “Feitoria da Mina”.

El Mina is the oldest European structure in Africa below the Sahara. Initially conceived as a trading settlement (primarily for gold trading) the Castle became one of the most important centres on the route of the Atlantic Slave trade and is notorious for being the oldest Slave Fort in Africa.

Arvind, our friend and host in Ghana, told us of the story of a time before the Portuguese and other Europeans came to the Gold Coast, when the Arab Traders would sail to the Gold Coast and the locals would leave gold dust/nuggets etc in wooden boxes and earthenware pottery and hide behind the palm groves. They would emerge from their hiding places when they saw that the Arab traders were pleased and had left bags of salt for the locals, otherwise they would bring still more boxes of gold dust, so as not to be deprived of their salt. (Talk about a fair exchange of commodities!!).

This was a far cry from present day Ghana where identified/discovered gold mines are mapped and mining rights are given to various interested countries. There is a huge South African/Chinese presence in one of the biggest gold mining town in Africa called Obuasi (from where we had to take a detour, as we had overshot the route to Cape Coast) where conducted tours of mining operations are conducted for tourists including showing them  gold laden ores.

It is estimated that over a period of about 330 years since its construction, 15.5 million captives, both male and female, including children were imprisoned in this Fort and sold as slaves to European traders, in the Caribbean and the new colonies in Brazil and the United States of America and other Portuguese colonies. (The slave trade from similar Forts/trading posts all over Ghana is estimated to have gone on for over 400 years and in all about 20.0 million people are estimated to have been sold as slaves from all over Ghana). Interestingly, children above 10 years of age were considered fit for being sold as slaves. 

Slaves were treated as a “commodity” and among the goods traded/transported by Traders or captured by Pirates, slaves were considered as part of the valuable cargo (it seems that there were no child labour laws in the so called “civilised countries of Europe and the American continents”. Perhaps, we should call this period the “Dark Ages of Europe”, instead of the “Renaissance period”). Along the Gold Coast, there were at least 20 Independent Kingdom – States. El Mina was situated between two different Fante Kingdoms – Fetu and Eguafo.  

It was a common practice for the Ashantis and the Fantes to take prisoners after battles fought with their adversaries and sell them to the Portuguese at the El Mina Fort as slaves, so as to reduce the chances of any future threats in exchange for goods such as textiles and horses.

Interestingly, even after Ghana gained Independence from the British, this Fort continued to be used as a prison till such time it was converted into a tourist attraction.

A tour of the El Mina castle/Fort:

The drive upto El Mina castle.

As soon as we reached the Car parking area a horde of young “friendly” boys, masquerading as College students accosted us with friendly handshakes and insisted that I write my name down on a sheet of paper so that they could pronounce it properly. 

Despite warnings from our friend Arvind that they would force me to buy a sea-shell with my name inscribed on it for an exorbitant price, somehow I fell into their trap and wrote down my name. One fellow even had the audacity to claim that “Guru Nanak was also a visitor to the El Mina Fort”. We didn’t argue though we knew better!! On the way back, they got after me to buy the sea-shell with my name written on it in delible ink and even tried to take a contribution from me for a so-called “Football Team” after showing me a register where “contributions” were mentioned ranging from 30 Ghana Cedis to 400 Ghana Cedis. But, what gave the game away was that all the names and contributions were in one hand-writing only and the same pen was used, although dates of contributions varied for over a few months. Nevertheless, I gave them one Cedi for their elaborate attempted “con trick”.

 The "con men" use these "con(ch)" shells for etching the names of unsuspecting tourists and selling them at exorbitant prices, especially to foreigners.

The "con"(ch) boys posing with Rajeev

One is taken in by the beautiful setting where the El Mina Fort is situated. A whole lot of colourful fishing boats dotted the jetty on one side. The Sea surrounds it on two sides in what is known as the Gulf of Guinea. It reminded us of the Sassoon Docks in Mumbai.

 Colourful Fishing Boats as seen fron the upper storey of the Castle

 

El Mina Castle flank- view, with palm trees growing in the dry moat-bed in single file.

 Right in front of the Fort/Castle entrance was an old abandoned cannon dating back to 1819 with Armament markings on it, still in fairly good condition. 

A little further down towards the sea was a motley lot of Dutch cannon in rusted condition which had also borne the brunt of a controlled bush fire. A sad caricature, because at one time they must have been the pride of Dutch Artillery when this Fort was in their possession.

Arvind at the Guard Watch window at the Drawbridge

El Mina front view, with Arvind and Rajeev at the Drawbridge

Sumita at the Draw-bridge

 Rajeev entering the castle through the Draw-bridge

Entering the Courtyard of El Mina with the Male Slave dungeons in front.

On seeing the façade of the castle, I was reminded of the Keep of Uri from the Classic story of “William Tell”.

 Moving towards the Main Gate, one can see a deep moat, as the first line of defence for the Fort. Tall palm trees are growing in a single file on the dry moat-bed now. After crossing the Drawbridge, one comes across two oval Guard observation posts/lookout posts, one on each side of the Draw-Bridge. Check out Arvind’s “portrait” taken at one of these posts. It reminds me of the lead actor in the old version of the movie “Django”, which is a story of a gun-fighter who organises the locals against a European coterie who indulge in slave-trading/slave labour.

As we entered the Castle, we were informed that a conducted tour of the castle was starting immediately. El Mina still preserves most of its original façade and construction material. 

We came across a "Heritage Railing" with the letters “W” mentioned prominently. On questioning its significance, we were informed by our Tour guide that it was the logo of and stood for the “West Indies Trading Company”.(Interesting, since we came from India which itself had borne the brunt of the "East India Company" yoke from the 17^th century onwards and then the British Crown till 1947).

Two Coat of Arms at El Mina Castle.

Inscription at El Mina Castle/Fort

Heading towards the female slave dungeons

The Tour started with the “Female slave cells/dungeons” .One entered the courtyard leading to the cells, which could be looked down upon/guarded by the Portuguese soldiers from the two floors above. It is a sad history on the moral standards of  the Portuguese Governors who were commanding the Fort, for they would wantonly pick and choose female slaves to be their companions for sexual amusement. We were shown a step ladder and a trap door through which the unfortunate female slaves had to climb upto the Governor’s top floor residence.

On the sides of the courtyard were the concrete cells in which the other female slaves were bunched up together. There was also an iron ball, the size of a cannon ball which was chained to the legs of “rebellious” female slaves. If they continued to be defiant, they were said to have been thrown in two cells on the side of the courtyard without food and water till they perished from exhaustion as a demonstrative warning to others. (The Portuguese were definitely not the epitome of being called civilized !!).

The Cell in which rebellious female slaves were kept without food and water chained to an iron ball, till they perished.

An original iron ball like the ones to which the rebellious female slaves were chained before being thrown into the Cells without food and water

If the female slaves “entertaining” the Governor got pregnant, they were withdrawn from the Fort and given quarters/residences outside the Fort premises and not sold as slaves . It devolved on them to talk to incoming female slaves and to prepare them for a lifetime of slavery. The children born to these women were treated as an encashable investment/asset, as they could be sold as slaves on reaching 10 years of age.

A trap-door was opened to show us the water drainage system below the female cells leading directly into the Sea.

Tour Guide explaining water drainage system in female slave dungeons

 

Our Tour guide showing us an outlet leading into the Ocean for the Drainage system in the female Slave dungeons.

                 

As if this was not enough, we were ushered into a long dark and dank hall with almost no ventilation facilities (many tourists in our group felt claustrophobic) which stank of perspiration and bodily fluids. It is said that the pervading smell still clings to the Cells after all these years, so one can imagine what it must have been like during the period when slaves were being brought to the Fort. 

This led into a smaller room again called the “Room of no return” without any noticeable ventilation and a small door on one side called “the Door of no return” through which the prisoners were taken on board waiting boats, before being herded into the holds of waiting ships in almost similar conditions like the dungeons of El Mina Castle but with a difference – they were chained to the floors of the ships and in the event of being attacked by pirates or facing a raging storm, several ships would go down with the slaves still being chained to their positions. There is a recorded instance in Pirating history when Bartholomew Roberts ("Black Bart" Roberts), the pirate is said to have burnt a slave ship with the prisoners still chained in the holds, because he was fleeing after a raid and had no time to free the slaves before burning the looted merchant ships for fear of being chased by pirate hunters.

The “Male slave cells/dungeons” fared no better and we saw almost identical “facilities” for the male slaves as in the female dungeons.

Going through the very poorly ventilated Male slave dungeon, towards the "Room of No Return"

 Ventilation inside male slave dungeons

"Room of no Return" has a very small door behind the tour Guide.

 Entrance to the "Room of no return". Entry is through a small door accessed by bending double. One can see how dark it is inside the Room where the slaves were herded together without any ventilation.

Inside the "Room of No Return"

 Small ventilation in the Room of No Return

The "Door of No Return" leading to waiting Boats/ships

 Rajeev looking outside the "Door of No Return".

The view outside the "Door of No Return" - present day.

Peep-hole for Portuguese soldiers to keep order in the Room

The Guide explaining the construction materials/wall thickness etc. in the Male Slave dungeon                            

Original Portuguese bricks used in the Dungeons

 An original Portuguese iron used inside one of the cells

The Tour-guide holding up an original Portuguese iron bar used in construction of the Fort. Several others have been renovated to maintain the original look of the Castle.

Exiting the Male slave dungeons

Then, we were taken to the other side of the Fort where there was a Cell in which dangerous prisoners were kept. About 20 of us were herded inside and the iron door was clanged shut. It was only about 20 seconds later that the cell door was opened by our guide, but as there were no ventilation facilities inside, for most of us it was an experience of a lifetime.

Next to this Cell was the Cell where condemned prisoners were kept before execution. Someone had a “morbid” sense of humour and had placed a “Skull and Cross-Bones” on the door. Here the iron door was more solid and only a thin slice of sunlight was the only source of connection with the outside World for the condemned prisoners. One lady, of European origin in our tour group of the Castle could not go inside these two cells and her voice choked with emotion at what her countrymen had done to the residents of Ghana.

 Rajeev examining the iron grill door of the cell where dangerous prisoners were kept.

Guide explaining the Details of the Holding Cell for dangerous prisoners. The only ventilation in the room is through the rectangular opening on the left  and one shown below, apart from the space on the door iron bars

 

Inside the holding cell for about 20 seconds.

The condemned prisoners cell/holding room with the Skull and cross-bones sign at the entrance. The door here is more solid and a lot less light/air enters the cell. 

Next to these two Cells was a memorial stone set up in 1992 by the Government of Ghana , to honour the unknown inmates of the slave dungeons, as a tribute to their sacrifices made over a period of 300 years.

The memorial stone

On one side was a memorial stone set up by a priest in memory of a Portuguese Governor whose grave was below the memorial stone in which it was mentioned inter alia in Dutch that the Governor was very humane and performed his tasks/duties nobly. Our Guide mentioned in sarcasm that the Slave Trade flourished under this Governor too and what kind of priest could mention such a statement when fellow human beings were subjected to such atrocities as witnessed in El Mina.

Memorial stone if a dead Dutch Governor, buried on the ground below.

On top of these two cells were four floors, the first floor housed the soldiers of the Portuguese Garrison, and the second floor was for conducting slave trading negotiations with ship’s captains or cargo traders from Europe, Caribbean and the United States of America et al. The third floor housed the senior officers and Dy. Governors of the Garrison. The top floor was the residential quarters of the Governor. 

A view from the court-yard with the four-storeyed building on the left.

We went next to the First Floor ramparts of the Fort. One could get a very clear view of the Ocean on three sides. The place where the Portuguese Flag and later the Dutch and the English flags were hoisted is still intact. On the ramparts can be seen a few cannon from the past. On one side of the fort, we were shown the remnants of a jetty built by the Portuguese and there were several colourful boats which dotted the Sea.

Inside the building was the Officer’s Mess and a staircase leading upto the Governor’s three room Flat/Residence with windows opening to the Ocean View (since closed). Several rafters/floor boards have since been repaired several times over, but they retain their original look.

We were taken to a Prayer Hall just below the Governor’s residence where a Psalm  is still legible written in Portuguese. Our Tour Guide did not miss the irony here and specifically mentioned that while prayers and holy sermons were being said here, just below the floor boards was a living hell for the inmates imprisoned there created by the same people who were busy praying to a "merciful God" in the Hall.

 Prayer Hall ceiling

 Psalm 132 inscribed on Prayer Hall wall. Below the Prayer Hall are the Slave dungeons

Portuguese Governor's house balcony overlooking the female slave dungeons. From here he used to choose the female slaves for his pleasure.

The trap door and wooden stairs through which the unfortunate chosen female slaves had to enter the  Portuguese Governor's bedroom

 Tour group going to see the Governor's "flat" which has two bedrooms

Outside the Governor’s residence is an open terrace where the cool sea breeze strikes you. A few long distance cannon are strategically placed to keep the pirates/raiding marauders at bay. Behind the Fort, one can see the Dutch Fort St. Jago situated strategically atop a Hill. It was originally built as a chapel by the Portuguese and named St. Jago chapel by them, but the Dutch captured this predominantly  mud structure and fortified it into a Fort. This Fort was vital in helping the Dutch bombard El Mina and capture it from the Portuguese about one and a half centuries later, in 1637. 

A tour group at the El Mina Fort Bastion  with long range cannon

View from the first Floor of the Castle

View of the Ocean - Gulf of Guinea surrounding the El Mina Fort

 View from first floor of El Mina

Flag Hoisting Stand for Portuguese, Dutch and later the English

 Sumita and Rajeev climbing to the next floor of the Castle with tour group

View of colourful fishing boats in the background from Top Floor bastion of El Mina Fort

View of Castle moat defences from the Top Floor bastion

View of the "great court" from Top floor bastion.

 Arvind, Rajeev and Sumita on top Floor bastion

view of boats anchored in the sea from top floor bastion

view of gulf of guinea Ocean from top floor bastion

side-view on top floor bastion

Rajeev in Portuguese guard room on top floor terrace

Paddle Boats "parked" on the ground

Remnants of a defunct jetty used for accessing the slave dungeons by boats during the period of Slave Trade

 A present day boat under construction

 Rajeev and Arvind at staircase leading upto the Portuguese Governor's residence

Rajeev going towards the Fort Bastion

 Arvind at the Fort Bastion

Outside the Portuguese Officer's Mess

Fort St. Jago from where the Dutch attacked and captured El Mina Castle

Front view of the Castle moat defences

The capture of El Mina Castle enabled the Dutch to take over the whole of the Portuguese Gold Coast in 1642. The original structure of Fort St. Jago was made of mud/earth, but the Dutch replaced the mud structure with this concrete Fort in 1660s. St. Jago was thereafter used by the Dutch for protecting El Mina castle when it was in their possession. 

Presently, Fort St. Jago along with El Mina Castle has been declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

The slave trade flourished even under Dutch occupation until 1814 whereafter it was converted into a trading post. The Dutch Gold Coast including Fort El Mina came under British occupation in 1872 and remained so until Ghana gained Independence from Britain in 1957.

From the terrace, we could see the outline of a Sun-Dial which was used by the Portuguese to tell the time of day.

Passing through the ground floor courtyard, one could see the door of a Portuguese Church which has been renovated and a cultural Museum has been opened within the church  premises to recount the glories and history of the People of Ghana and mentioning the history of the Slave trade in West Africa. A small recompense for the millions who suffered so tragically within the concrete walls of this Fort. 

Renovated Portuguese Church converted into a memorial museum for all the men and women who suffered within the walls of the Fort/Castle

Even here one door on the left is marked the “Soldier’s Mess”. The Dutch upon capturing El Mina Castle, converted the Portuguese Church into a Trading Hall mainly for the sale of slaves and an upper floor was added to provide for more accomodation.  The Dutch also improved the defences of the Castle and opened a new chapel which was more modest and smaller than the Church. They also paved the floor of the "Great Court" in stone.

Arvind at El Mina memorial museum

Samples of original chains which were clamped on the slaves

 Some artifacts found in El Mina Castle on display at the Museum

The Fort also has an on-site restaurant (although no one felt like having anything after the sobering experience of human cruelty to fellow human beings), a book store and a gift shop. 

 Paintings on sale at a gift shop

Artifacts on sale at the Gift shop. In the foreground are "Kente" cloth bags which are woven into geometric designs by Artisans at their handlooms You can also see the "Gye Nyame" Adinkra symbol (except God) on the left shelf.

Earthernware artifacts on sale

Some other items on sale

The movie “Cobra Verde” has been filmed on the history of El Mina Castle.

In sum, the Portuguese were the pioneers in the 15th century and started exporting slaves in West Africa to Europe, Americas and the Caribbean across the Atlantic Ocean. Other European Powers - the Danes, Dutch, British, French, Germans and Swedes soon emulated them in a slave trade spanning over four centuries. El Mina was the Trade Post for the Portuguese (1482-1637) and the Dutch (1637-1872). In the Trading post of El Mina and other strategic positions, Europeans traded goods viz., cloth, brassware, liquor, guns etc. with the African traders in exchange for produce of Africa - gold, ivory, cocoa and other foodstuffs, artefacts and slaves. 

 Slaves were exported in horrifying conditions to Agricultural plantations and Mines in the Americas, Caribbean and Europe. Besides being traded as slaves, African soldiers were recruited during the Dutch period and sent from El Mina to other Dutch colonies such as Java and Indonesia as part of the Dutch Army. 
 For the greater part of that period until the Dutch Government abolished the slave trade, the most lucrative commodity traded here was - Slaves!!

(Article researched and written by Rajeev. Photographs by Sumita)

Links: 

1) Adinkra symbols of Ghana, West Africa 

2) Lake Bosumchwe or Bosumchwi, Ghana 

3) Mole National Park, Ghana 

4) History of coinage and banknotes of Ghana 

5)  Funerals in Ghana

6) Larabanga Mosque and the Mystic Stone

7) Food, Culture and Music of Ghana  

8) A visit to Ghana

9) Oware: The ancient National Game of Ghana