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Tuesday, July 31, 2018

56. A Road Trip to Lonar and Aurangabad revisited



Come monsoon, and if you are in Pune, you feel the verdant nature calling you to step out and soak in the beautiful green all around. This July we had Amma too along with Anu and Ajit with us so as abundant precaution Rajeev pre-booked us at the MTDC Aurangabad and Lonar. MTDC Aurangabad is under renovation and the rooms allotted were dank and dirty so we almost checked out to a nearby hotel but they gave us their VIP rooms and convinced us to stay on. The MTDC at Lonar has been newly renovated but they have forgotten to change their old plumbing. Anyway as we needed to stay just a night it wasn’t too bad.
As usual we started early morning and after our breakfast halt at the Smile Stones reached Aurangabad by lunchtime. Unfortunately we wasted that day trying to find another hotel but then the sight of the huge, airy rooms on offer at the MTDC made us happily stay on. Discovered a small but interesting eating joint nearby called Italios, where we trooped in every night for dinner.
Second day we started our sight-seeing in earnest as the others were seeing the place for the first time. (Read a detailed account of our earlier trip to Aurangabad with Dennis and Maggie http://justtravelmusings.blogspot.com/2012/08/aurangabad-ancient-and-medieval-india.html  .) Just like the last time we started with Daulatabad and the Ellora caves first then proceeded to Khuldabad. On the way back Amma stopped to buy some gifts from the Paithani outlets on the way. She bought an Aurangabadi bed cover which she observed me appreciate, and surreptitiously left in my cupboard when leaving.


THE SWEET DENIZENS OF DAULATABAD!

AND A BEAUTIFUL CRESTED BUNTING BUSY BUILDING A NEST IN TUGHLAQ"S CAPITAL

SINCE WE LAST VISITED KHULDABAD A CHAIN OF POSSESION OF THE RELIC OF THE PROPHET'S GOWN HAS BEEN DISPLAYED. THE GATE TO THE ROOM WHERE THE RELIC IS KEPT HAS ALSO BEEN BEAUTIFIED.👇


On the third day we started for Ajanta bright and early as it was a 109 kms from our place of stay. While the others trekked up the slopes to the caves, Amma and I spent over 2 hours at the MTDC restaurant, the staff fussing over us full time. Who says government employees are rude and not customer friendly!


LONAR

On the fourth day we were off to on our much awaited trip to Lonar. Last time in the August of 2012 we had missed seeing it. In fact, perhaps, we were so focused on Aurangabad we had completely over looked its existence.
This small town in the dry Vidarbha region has a rare meteoric crater which was formed some 2.6 million years ago in what is called the Pleistocene Epoch. It predates the evolution of man! The thought of seeing something that rare and ancient had us all sitting agog awaiting a glimpse. The last stretch of the road to Lonar is full of potholes, made worse by the rains.  Our excitement for seeing the crater at the end of it made us even more impatient.


THE LONAR CRATER

The first glimpse of the blue-green lake in the almost circular crater made us collectively go “AAH”. The potholes were forgotten.

THE LONAR CRATER LAKE
AMMA TOO TREKKED HALFWAY DOWN TO THE CRATER! 



The water in the lake is saline and highly alkaline and was devoid of any biological growth until recently. The absolute silence and stillness inside the crater gave rise to a number of legends and myths and people were scared to go inside. A number of temples have been built in and around the crater. The ones inside the crater are quite dilapidated. Two sweet water streams called Purna and Penganga drain into the lake. A large Devi temple has been built at the spot.

DEVI IDOL INSIDE THE TEMPLE

TEMPLE AT THE CONFLUENCE OF PENGANGA AND PURNA
A PYRAMID SHAPED TEMPLE. LOOKS LIKE A VASTU TEMPLE TO WARD OFF UNFAVOURABLE ENERGIES

DILAPIDATED TEMPLES INSIDE THE CRATER⇅





DAITYASUDAN TEMPLE

We soon settled down and after a few enquiries started our exploration of Lonar. We started with the Daitya Sudan temple which dates back to the Chalukyas (6th to 12th centuries).  There is a legend in the Skanda Purana of a demon called Lavanasura or Lonasura (lavan or lona is salt in the regional language), who resided in the crater and plagued the simple folks of the surrounding area. Vishnu had to appear in his Daityasudan avatar as a handsome young man, to kill the demon and rid the place of his scourge. The legend explains the salty lake as the remnants of the demons flesh and blood.
The temple is shaped like a multi-pointed star in the Hemadpanthi style specific to Maharashtra. The main entrance is from the east. It was said to have been a Sun Temple as supported by a carving of the Sun God at a vantage point of the temple. The original idol, however, got stolen and now a statue of Vishnu made of a very shiny, mettalic black stone was got installed by the Bhonsle rulers of Nagpur.
The whole temple structure is decorated by carvings reminiscent of the Khajuraho temples and was built around the same time.

THE SUN GOD CARVING

THE NEW VISHNU IDOL WITH LONASURA UNDER HIS FEET

DAITYASUDAN TEMPLE

THE REMNANTS OF AN OLDER TEMPLE
IN FRONT OF THE DAITYASUDAN TEMPLE A ROCK WHICH LOOKS SOMEWHAT LIKE THE FIGURE OF HANUMAN HAS FOUND AN ALTAR! The broken wall , if you look closely, is full off the Swifts nests.

MOTHA MARUTI MANDIR or the BIG HANUMAN TEMPLE

There is a temple with a large statue, made of a highly magnetic rock, of the Lord Hanuman. The statue seems to have fallen down (possibly because of sheer weight). There is a small lake near the temple called CHHOTA LONAR or AMBAR LAKE about 700mts from the main lake formed probably by a splinter of the main meteor.

MARUTI TEMPLE FROM OUTSIDE

THE RECLINING HANUMAN IDOL


THE STEP WELL

While we were at the Daityasudan temple we met an employee of the Archeological Survey of India who directed us to an amazing piece of history which finds no mention anywhere. It was a fairly well preserved step well or “bavdi”, where the queens of yore went to bathe. Nothing has been said about its history but at least it has been wire fenced and a watchman unlocks the gate for visitors. The lane outside had Gausia Nagar displayed so one could find it if you asked a local for directions to that.

THE NAMELESS BAVDI



The Lonar MTDC looks quite attractive except for plumbing problems it would be quite comfortable too. That night Anu taught us how to play a version of the Monopoly and the sheer pressure on our minds made us sleep like babes. We didn’t mind the leaking or non functional taps (as the case may be) and left with just a few tips on cleanliness and hygiene in the canteen.

OUR ROOMS AT MTDC LONAR

GREAT TITS HAPPILY NESTING IN CLAY POT NESTS.  While the wooden nests I've hung up in my house are still un-rented😒

This little Swift got entangled in a spider web in the canteen and had to be saved by a staff.


We were back in Aurangabad by evening on the fifth day and decided to finish our sightseeing with a revisit to the Bibi Ka Maqbara and the Panchakki which we had missed seeing on our last trip.


BIBI KA MAQBARA
On the rustic route from Lonar to Aurangabad saw some birds and interesting sights you rarely see in cities.





                                                                  
PANCHAKKI

The Panchakki, or water-mill, dates back to Mughal times. it was built in 1624 for a Muslim saint Baba Shah Musafir, so called because he had come all the way from Russia. The mill was run by water brought through underground channels from a reservoir some 6 kms away.


BABA HAZRAT SHAH, WHO HAD COME FROM  RUSSIA, SET UP AN ORPHANAGE AND REFUGE FOR THE GARRISONS AND SOLDIERS 


THE PANCHAKKI WHICH GROUND MOUNDS OF FLOUR EACH DAY
We started back for Pune on the sixth day after a very easy paced trip to suit Amma, who is really quite a soldier and enjoys travelling more than any of us (which is saying something!). The weather which had held all this while, came pouring down once we reached back and the rain clouds did not let up till a few days before our friends returned home.



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105 comments:

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    1. Thanks. That is so true, it was a surprise to us too. With a little work Maharashtra tourism can make it a tourist hot spot :-)

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