12. Back to the roots : A trip to Lucknow

 

19^th Oct, 2012

Went to buy some chikan stuff in Hazratganj. What a pleasant surprise! Our beloved Hazratganj has had a facelift – we had heard about it but it still took us by surprise. Fountains everywhere, fancy benches to sit on, the lovely lamps along-side the roads, everything looked quite tastefully done. Like always, in Lucknow, buying a few garments and having some chaat turned into an experience.

Yesterday was a trip to the twin cities of Ayodhya and Faizabad. Long ago we would drive to Faizabad once every year or so to visit my sister staying there. This time the experience was exceptional because the new six lane metal road with flyovers made the drive a pleasure rather than a chore. While driving we were reminiscing the time when some 17 years back we had stopped at a “dhaba” (as the roadside eateries along the Highways all over India are called where wholesome and healthy food is available round the clock)  along the way for lunch. The gentleman in true U.P. style had sat and personally supervised what we ate and insisted we taste his delicious rice pudding (kheer) at the end of the meal. To our surprise and thrill, inspite of all the change, we rediscovered Guruji ka Dhaba (so called because Misraji, the owner was a school teacher earlier). After an emotional ‘catching up’ with Misraji, a cup of tea and a promise to have lunch on the way back we proceeded to our destination.

Catching up with old friends

Challenges like this were thrown at us. "children don't chase tigers".

We drove to my sister’s old Crop Research Centre in the midst of green rice fields on the outskirts of Faizabad, where she had some work. It is amazing how some places remain unchanged as if caught in a time warp.

Ayodhya too was unchanged except for the fact that they have put up barricades for entry to the temples and do not let vehicles in. The policemen ask for a “pass” to let the vehicle in while you have hoards of boys running along-side your car promising to take you and your car for a tour of the temples for just Rs 20! That’s India! Anyway we were not looking to see all the temples, which we have seen umpteen number of times, so we drove on to the Saryu river bank for a boat ride.

A symbolic "godaan" - donating a cow.

Ram ki Paidi

Innovative use of a coin. Rajeev was of course not too happy!

Ayodhya, named after King Ayudh, its founder and a fore-father of Lord Rama is situated on the right bank of the Saryu (Ghagra river). However, according to the “Ramayan” (ancient Hindu Text on the life and times of Lord Rama) it was founded by Manu, (the ancient Law giver). It is one of the 7 most sacred cities in India for the Hindus, Varanasi being the most sacred. But other religions have also prospered here at different times. 5 Jain Tirthankars were born at Ayodhya, including Adinath (first Tirthankar), Ajitnath (second Tirthankar), Abhidanath (fourth Tirthankar), Sumatinath (fifth Tirthankar) and Anantnath (fourteenth Tirthankar). According to the Jain Agams, it is the second eternal city after Shikharji, which never vanishes or disappears when eras change.

Ancient Jain Temple

During the Maurya and the Gupta period many Budhist temples and monuments and centres of learning were established which we did not have the time to explore. Faxian, a Chinese monk, recorded several Budhist monasteries that he saw there.

The founder of the Swaminarayan sect lived here during his childhood and started from here his seven year journey across India as ‘Neelkanth’.

Ayodhya’s influence and fame goes beyond our borders. As recorded in an 11^th century Korean chronicle King Suro of Geumgwan Gaya wed a princess from Ayodhya in 48 CE. The local Ayodhya authorities and South Korean government acknowledged the connection by having a joint function to install a statue of the princess on the banks of the Saryu River. The Thai kingdom and city of Ayutthaya, and the Indonesian sultanate of Yogyakarta, were named after Ayodhya.

Saadat Ali Khan, the Nawab of Awadh, gave Ayodhya as a gift to his loyal soldier, Dwijdeo Mishra, for quelling a revenue rebellion. In 1856, Ayodhya was annexed by the British and the sparks of the mutiny in the subsequent year were mainly lit here.

Notwithstanding the “Ramjanmbhoomi” controversy, Ayodhya has been an epitome of communal harmony and remains so till date. Everybody would have heard of Munne Mian, the devoted caretaker of the famous Ramji temple, who looked after it till his death in 2004.

Temples and places to see in Ayodhya

Hanuman Garhi :

The famous Hanumangarhi temple was built by the Nawab of Avadh. (Legend has it that Hanuman lived here in a cave and guarded the “Janambhoomi” or “Ramkot”. The temple is housed in a four sided fort with circular bastions). The idol is of Bal Hanuman in the lap of his mother Maa Anjani.

Kanak Bhawan:

As per mythology this place was gifted to Sita by Kaikai after marriage.

Ramkot:

The chief place of worship in Ayodhya is in the ancient citadel of Ramkot and stands on an elevated ground.

Swarg Dwar:

Lord Rama was supposed to have been cremated here.

Mani Parbat and Sugriv Parbat:

The first is identified with a stupa built by Emperor Ashoka and the second is believed to be an ancient monastery.

Treta ke Thakur:

This temple is built where Rama is said to have performed the Ashvamedh Yajna. Some 300 years ago the Raja of Kullu built a temple here improved by Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore in 1784, and also built the adjoining ghats. The idols in black sandstone were recovered from the Saryu and placed in the temple, now famous as Kaleram-ka-Mandir.

Ornate temple door

Nageshwarnath Temple:

This temple is said to have been erected by Kush, Rama’s son. Kush, while bathing in the Saryu, lost an armlet which was recovered by a Nag-Kanya who fell in love with him. As she was a devotee of Shiva, Kush built this temple for her. It is said that this was the temple through which Vikramaditya was able to locate Ayodhya as the rest of the city was in ruins and covered by dense forests. 

Nandi decided to pay Nageshwarnath a visit in person!

                             The legend (click to increase size of pic)

Beautiful old Ganesha idol

The resident devotees

We took a detour to Guptar Ghat, where Rama was supposed to have disappeared from sight.

A painting on the outside wall of a temple.

parakeets nesting in the temple walls

 After having devoured all the varieties of ice cream being sold, to the delight of this vendor, we drove through the spic and span cantonment in stark contrast to the rest of the city of Faizabad to keep our date with Mishraji.  

 

Dogra Temple

 17th October 2012
Lucknow Zoo

After a break for a day, when we just walked around the lush green compound of this complex we are staying in, and going around the local market, yesterday we went for an outing to the Lucknow Zoo. Yeah! I know, cho chweet and all, but wait till you see the pics.

The Lucknow Zoological gardens popularly called Banarsi Bagh spreads over 71.6 acres and it has a pleasing layout with lots of greenery. Since childhood I have been frequently going to the zoo but more for the greenery than seeing caged animals. This time I saw some improvements and changes. Oh yes the toy train is back on!

                  Check out this tiny video and put a smile on your face :-)

The beautiful Macaws

This one is there by choice! A water hen

A shy Lion Tailed Macaque which has a voice like a human's

The Sarus Crane. State bird of U.P.

A pond heron. A free bird ofcourse!

Pelicans

A Painted Stork and its pretty pink feathers

Woolly Necked Stork

A Painted Stork. Balding!

A rose ringed parakeet

Zebra and friend

 

Frollicking dragon flies

A sad, sad Chimp called Smiley!. He sucks his thumb! poor orphan.

Sighting this Black Red Start in the zoo premises made my day!

Still pepped after 2 hours of zooing!!

Unreal!

His freedom is not impaired!

That's one hungry froggy.

You know you are in Lucknow when 'shers' (not tigers) are coming out of walls!

The zoo houses a small size museum too. Some of the artifacts displayed we liked quite a lot.

15th October 2012  

Dewa Sharif

We travelled by the weekend train from Pune to Lucknow and reached here the day before. This train is like a students’ special. All these kids studying in the numerous schools and colleges of Pune, and the youngsters working in the IT companies, are forever travelling back and forth in this train. So we had the company of these two boys going home after their first trimester in Law School. It was sweet to see these still green under the collar youngsters returning home after leaving their homes for the first time. The girls, Engineering students, and a little more senior, were much more confident and a little irritated by the constant follow-up of their parents on phone. The train was three hours late reaching, which made it 28 hours of travelling in less than ideal conditions, but I am proud to say, I bore it rather stoically for once. 

Yesterday we felt good enough to drive some 30 kms out of Lucknow to Dewa Sharif (dist. Barabanki) to visit the shrine of the Sufi saint Haji Waris Ali Shah. 

He died on 7^th April, 1905 so the monument built in his memory by both Hindus and Muslims jointly is relatively new and well preserved. Built in the Hindu-Iranian style, it is quite appropriate to the saint’s teachings and the inter-faith mix of his devotees. Haji Waris Ali Shah, like Hazrat Moinuddin of Ajmer is of the Chisti order and he traces his lineage to the Prophet.

While he lived, Haji Waris Ali was popular with people of all walks of life and had even travelled to Europe. In fact one devotee, a Spanish Nobleman, Count Galaraza came to visit and interview him all the way from Spain. His monotheistic teachings appealed to all.

If one enters the dargah with a still mind and devotion in the heart the surge of energy  experienced is tremendous.

Jo Rab hai wohi Ram

Huge 'parathas' and 'halwa' selling outside

giant 'khajas'

 The route is not without beauty. We had to stop the car quite a few times to appreciate pretty sights along the way.

Lunch at a snazzy 'dhaba' with great food.

More on Lucknow and around

Nawabganj
Asafi Imambara, Hussainabad Imambara, Clock Tower, Picture Gallery, Satkhanda
Residency