20. Colours of Africa: A visit to Ghana: Lake Bosumchwi or Bosumtwe

Lake Bosumtwi or Bosomtwe

Reaching the Bosumtwi Lake:

We went to visit Lake Bosumtwi during our second last week in Ghana on 24^th February 2013, thanks to Arvind (called “Mr. Arvin” by the Ghanaians) who insisted that we should see the only Natural Lake in Ghana. We drove to Kumasi and asked for directions.

 The Ghanaians are extremely friendly and helpful and one gentleman in a car insisted that we should follow him till we reached the straight road leading upto Lake Bosumtwi some 36 Km. away. Not only this, he gave us further elaborate directions ending with “follow the signages” (Most highways/roads between cities in Ghana do not have milestones or gantries indicating the directions to take. This becomes particularly difficult at dusk/night, when a traveller has to go by instinct and hope that he/she is on the right road, especially as most of Ghana has massive power shortages/outages. We were told that another Dam , apart from Akosombo Dam which provides most of Ghana’s electricity is under construction and would mitigate the power shortage in a big way) .

Hopefully, during the next few years, the concerned authorities would take care of this important aspect (road signs/milestones etc., which would help not only for the Foreign tourists but also   Ghanaian and ECOWAS travellers.

Spotting the Lake from the Mountain-top:

After a drive of about 30 Kms. from Kumasi, we spotted the Lake in a “Bowl” surrounded by the Crater walls in the shape of densely forested mountains. There is an entry fee of GHC 2 per person (the equivalent of Rs.62/- in Indian currency)  and one has to drive down the scenic mountain road about 6 kms. to reach the lake site and the deep impact crater bowl.

The Bowl:

  

  
On reaching a beautiful lake view in all its majesty greets the visitor. We wondered what it must have been like when the Meteor had impacted the Earth more than a million years ago at the spot where we were standing!!

                Arvind and Rajeev

 

        

The wooden Boards from where Fishing is permitted.
Lake Bosumtwi has sprung up on the site where an ancient meteor had impacted/collided with the Earth, some 1.07 million years ago during the “Pleistocene period” (during the Cainozoic era in the Quaternary Period. This is also the period when the first true man the “Homo Erectus” arose and flourished. Considering that life began on Earth some 3,500 million years ago, 1.07 million years seems to be a very miniscule time period in the evolution of Life on Earth).

 The crater formed as a result of the impact has led to accumulation of water in the Lake (the lake is estimated to be 8 km or 5 miles across but the impact crater is about 10.50km in diameter, i.e. slightly larger than the size of the present lake and the depth of the crater is 380 metres approx. and together with the lake sediments is estimated at about 750 metres.) and is presently a popular tourist resort, with several hotels, eateries etc. which having sprung up.

 There are vendors selling bathing suits for the tourists to change and take a dip in the Lake. 

        

Sumita however, settled for a necklace with a “Gye Nyame” Adinkra symbol (meaning “Except God”) and a colourful beads bracelet made of wooden beads bought from this quaint roadside vendor selling interesting artifacts.

 For more on the Gye Nyame and 82 other Adinkra symbols please click on this link http://justtravelmusings.blogspot.in/2013/03/colours-of-africa-visit-to-ghana_8.html

About 30 villages are situated around this Crater Lake. The villages look very picturesque with their tiled slanting roofs amidst the thick Forest covering, interspersed with very modern buildings and resorts.

Bosumtwi , a sacred lake:

The Ashantis consider Bosumtwi as a sacred lake. There is an age-old belief that the souls of the ancestors come here to bid farewell to the God “Twi”. Because of this fishing, is permitted only from the wooden planks on the side of the lake. Nevertheless, we saw some fishing nets lined up in the Lake.

Among fish species which are found in the Lake are the endemic cichlid “Hermichromis frempongi” and the near endemic cichlids “Tilapia busumana” and “T. discolour”. (During our stay in Ghana, Sumita has tasted the Tilapia at various eateries and swears that it is one of the tastiest fishes she has eaten).

 Sumita testing the waters.

 A quick-thinking hen waiting in the waters to pick up small fish and as the water recedes, insects and small crabs on the shore-line.

 Waiting patiently for its victim.

 Here comes a victim!!

 Got it!! That was really "yum"!!

 A white-wagtail hunting along the water-line, likewise.

 A Dunlin hunting for food in similar fashion.

Fortunately, we carried our own picnic basket of parathas, sandwiches and hot coffee, so we did'nt have to "hunt" for our food (even though Sumita's picture above seems to suggest that she would have preferred to "catch" a Tilapia.

 

Only sandwiches and parathas washed down  with coffee. NO TILAPIA!!

A dragon-fly with black markings on its wing-tips looking like a helicopter.

  Sheep along the water-front.

  Resorts along the Lake.

An impromptu Yogic Head Stand by Arvind, showing off to the Gallery!!

Present status of the crater:

The crater has partially eroded over the centuries and all around it, a dense rainforest has sprung up which makes it difficult for geologists and scientists to study the lasting effects of the meteorite impact.

Even the shock features like “shatter cones” have been overgrown by vegetation or covered by the Lake. The crater’s central uplift has been drilled to give up a lot of shocked materials for scientific study. It is estimated that the impact of the meteorite was so immense that “Tektites” from the impact are found in neighbouring Ivory Coast (Cote D’Ivoire) and microtectites have been found in deep sea sediments, west of the African continent.

Historical background for naming the lake “Bosumtwi”

Legend has it that sometime around 1648, an Ashanti hunter named “Akora Bompe” from the city of “Asaman” was chasing an injured antelope through the rainforest. The antelope suddenly disappeared in a small water-body. It was as if this water-body wanted to save the animal’s life. The hunter could not get the antelope and instead resorted to fishing in the pond. This pond was called “Bosomtwe” meaning “Antelope God”. The story suggests that at that time the lake level was quite low. The large dead trees standing in the Lake also seem to bear evidence that these trees are over 300 years old.

Other interesting facts about the Lake’s history:

-      Several wars took place for possession of this lake as both the Ashantis and Akim claimed ownership, with the Ashantis winning the Area decisively.

-      Each village around the Lake has its own shrine or fetish grove. Interestingly, people sought divine intervention from their shrines or fetishes in times of distress or guarding against diseases.

-      The “Abrodwum Stone” is held to be the spiritual centre of the Lake.

-      Whenever there is a poor fishing the Ashantis consider it to be a bad omen and traditionally used to sacrifice a cow in the presence of the Ashanti King, the “Asantehene” himself. The cow’s innards are offered to the Stone and the rest is thrown into the lake. Thereafter the onlookers rush into the water with cutlasses and axes to get a share of the meat.

-      There is traditional taboo against touching the water with iron and modern boats are not considered appropriate. The “padua” a wooden plank requiring considerable skill to manoeuvre is normally resorted to so as to honour the Taboo.

-      There are several environmental concerns including overfishing for the increasingly growing population in the surrounding villages, inadequate farming methods eg. Soil erosion due to farming is posing another serious problem.

-      Before the asteroid struck, there was a lush rainforest filled with animals. The crater formed due to the Asteroid’s impact filled with rain-water leading to the emergence of the Lake. Over the millennia, changing water levels during the rainy season flood the Lake and several surrounding villages leading to severe dislocation of the villagers. Several evidences of changing water levels over the centuries have been confirmed by the fossils of fish found on hilltops. Also, evidences of shallow water levels have also been confirmed, at times the Lake being reduced to being a shallow pond about 300 years ago as per paleoclimatic records, which is also confirmed by the tale/legend of the Hunter and the Antelope.

-      The maximum length of the Lake has been measured at 8.6 km. (5.3 miles), maximum width at 8.10 km.(5.0 miles), surface area at 49 sq. km (19 miles). Average depth is at 45 metres (150 ft.) while the maximum depth is 81 metres (265 ft.).

   The drive back from the Lake:

 

 

Notice somethig? There is almost no traffic on the Road, even though it is a holiday, most unlike the traffic on Indian Roads. The total population of Ghana is only 18 million people as against the over 1.00 billion population in India. Also, there is no litter on the roads.

(Article researched and written by Rajeev, with inputs and photographs from Sumita).

Links: 

1) Mole National Park, Ghana 

2) Adinkra symbols of Ghana, West Africa

3) El Mina Castle/Fort, Cape Coast, Ghana 

4)History of Coinage and Banknotes of Ghana 

5) Funerals in Ghana 

6) Larabanga mosque and the Mystic Stone 

7) Food, Culture and Music of Ghana 

8)  A visit to Ghana

9) Oware: The ancient National Game of Ghana