14. Back to the roots: A trip to Lucknow 3

23^rd Oct, 2012

We had the most amazing time today. I never imagined I will ever say that after visiting the two Imambaras and the Residency. I realised that a person’s ability to appreciate certain things changes, so even though I have visited these places umpteen number of times when I was in Lucknow some 15 years ago, I am certain I was never as awe struck by the grandeur and beauty of these structures like I was today. In fact I don’t remember being as pleased seeing any place, anywhere. Maybe hearing polite and chaste Urdu after such a long time also had something to do with it.

Rumi Darwaza or the Turkish Gate

Our first stop was as usual the Bara Imambara after passing through the Rumi Darwaza. Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-dowlah, the Rumi Darwaza is 59 feet tall. It was designed on the Sublime Porte (Bab-i-Humayun) in Istanbul. The designer Kifayatullah was selected through a competition. His grave is also in the Bara Imambara. 

Rumi Darwaza

The Bara Imambara or Asafi Imambara

The Bara Imambara, the most famous building in Lucknow, was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-dowlah in 1784, to provide employment to his famine struck subjects giving rise to the adage in urdu “jise na de moula, use de Asaf-ud-dowla”. The structure took a decade to finish because during the day people would build while at night the noblemen would be called to bring down the same.

The central chamber, containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-dowlah is 50mts by 16mts by 15mts and has one of the largest unsupported arches in the world. There are eight surrounding chambers with labyrinthine three dimensional passages connecting 489 identical doorways called “bhool bhulaiya”. It is rumoured that there were other secret passages (now blocked) leading to Faizabad, Allahabad and Delhi.

The Machhli Darwaza - a facade across the Bara Imambara

Asafi or Bara Imambara

The 50 mt long roof unsupported by any beam. A match struck in one corner of the gallery can be heard across the hall

These doorways (one open two blocked) 489 in number form the famed maze. They also help air cool the huge building by guiding the passage of air

The adjoining chamber roof shaped like a melon - "kharbooza"

The Chinese design roof of the other chamber

An ornate roof

An intricately designed arched entrance

The 'Bouli', a step well

A step well called “bowli” with natural running water is also in the complex.

The imposing Asfi Masjid is also in the same complex.

Asafi Masjid

Asafi Masjid side view

The Tille wali Masjid seen from the Imambara

Rajeev recording his impressions

  We decided to walk to the Chhota Imambara and see other things places up close.

Clock Tower

This landmark clock tower was almost scrapped by the U.P. administration, because the clock had stopped working and the company having provided it said they can no more supply its parts. A local watchmaker finally fixed it after another stole all its original parts.

Clock Tower or Hussainabad ka Ghantaghar

Picture Gallery

The Picture Gallery is housed in a building also built by Muhammad Ali Shah. It has life size paintings of all the Nawabs of Avadh. We got a picture of the most famous one before the caretaker told us taking pictures was not permitted.  The view from the open verandahs of the gallery is particularly nice. I saw a white throated kingfisher catch a fish in the little lake in front and almost got a perfect picture of the bird with its prey but at the last moment it turned its back on me!

Picture Gallery

The famous portrait of Wajid Ali Shah

White throated kingfisher with a fish in its beak

Chhota Imambara or Hussainabad Imambara

I could not believe my eyes when I saw this grand structure bathed in the morning light. If anything it is even more impressive than the Bara Imambara. Built in 1838 by the third Nawab of Avadh, Muhammad Ali Shah, I think it has always wrongly been under the shadow of the Bara Imambara because of the nomenclature – Chhota meaning small and Bara meaning big. It is of course a mausoleum of Muhammad Ali Shah and houses his tomb and those of his family. A large number of chandeliers, brought specially from Belgium and other countries are stacked here, perhaps because of that it is also called the “Palace of Lights”.

Entrance to the Chhota Imambara

What a gem! The Hussainabad Imambara - main building. Calligraphic script in white on a black background, on the walls, makes a striking contrast.

Reflection in the water

The two structures on either side-as beautiful

Beautifil lightning conductor

The auspicious fish at the gate

The collection of chandelliers

Prophet's foot print

An Ivory replica of the Taj Mahal made by a Lucknow craftsman

The walls are decorated with calligraphic script in Arabic. The golden ribbed domes of the Imambara make a picturesque sight even from far.

Satkhanda

The semi –finished tower called the Satkhanda meaning seven storeys is very near the Imambara. Ali Shah intended to make a tower  for lunar observation,  as imposing as the Qutub Minar or the Leaning Tower of Pisa but before it could be finished he died. The Satkhanda has only four storeys.

The unfinished Satkhanda

Waiting for Id or maybe not!

After this we went to the Residency but that deserves a separate post.

More on Lucknow and around

Hazratganj by night, Ayodhya/Faizabad, Lucknow Zoo, Dewa Sharif
Nawabganj
Residency