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Thursday, August 17, 2023

57) Bhuleshwar Shiva Temple : The Weekenders' outing

 

15th August 2023

After a long gap I decided to blog a short trip we took to Bhuleshwar temple some 45 kms outside Pune. We are a little rusted; not travelling around too much these days. The pandemic, somehow, has cured us of the wanderlust and made us appreciate what a luxury a quiet time at home is. Anyway, here we are the 5 picnickers, making the most of a beautiful, breezy monsoon day, while Indians everywhere celebrated the 76th Independence Day of Mother India, five of us viz Chetali, Hemani, Seema, Rajeev, Sumita drove out in Hemani’s, (renamed Mani – like the gem - by me), Kia.

After the usual frantic messaging to and fro, getting each one out of their house with the usual assorted lunch items we finally were on our way. On the Sholapur road some 45 kms outside of Pune is this beautiful Shiva temple, dedicated to Bhuleshwar. I was curious about the name so checked the meaning and found the following:

 bhūla (भूल).—f ( H) Stupefaction (as caused by the use of intoxicating substances). 2 Obscuration of intellect; bewilderment or confusion of mind; infatuation. v paḍa, ghāla.

There is a story that Shiva was mesmerised after seeing Parvati dance while meditating here and the yogi’s infatuation with Parvati earned him the name Bhuleshwar. In keeping with the mood the inside of the temple is adorned with a plethora of carvings of figures from the epics, the Mahabharat and Ramanayan as also other texts, giving it a feel of the richness of our South Indian temples.

It, however, shows the ravages of the Muslim/Mughal devastation on the outside as also the inside which has really become a hallmark of all our ancient temples, especially up North. Leaves one’s heart feeling a little broken, like the statues.


Looks a little like a fort at first sight and that is because at some point a fort wall was built around it. Apparently there were a number of temples here but only this one survived the marauders onslaught. The repairs to the outside is clearly visible. An interesting fact is that the temple is made of black basalt  which is not available in the vicinity. The Kailashnath temple in Ellora is also made of the same rock type.




Vishnu on Sheshnag shayya and Devi Durga on top.



The Turtle signifying the withdrawal of the five senses from the outside world, like the turtle withdrawing its limbs and head, during meditation. Kurma was one of the Avatars of Vishnu.


Nandi the Bull (in India colours 😊) eternally focussed on Shiva as should be a devotee's mind.


Baba Bhuleshwar



The above two panels depict stories from the two epics.


The Gods are shown in female form: Shiva in the center with Ganesh to his right and Kartikey to the left. I could identify by their respective vahan or animal associated with them. One can see the mouse, the bull and the peacock. The egalitarianism including that of gender, in our ancient people, is unparalleled, 



The mudras :- Bhairava, Gyan and Abhaya. Mudras are used during meditation so are depicted in Shiva's abode.



Apsaras, Yakshas, Gandharvas etc adorn the walls while Nandi sits pensively.


The huge gong outside, characteristic of most temples here.


Rajeev with his walking stick, very pleased to have climbed the 200 steps, finally, against all odds.

 
Sunlight streamed inside the temple forming interesting light and shade patterns.


The Weekenders


Dilapidated remnants of a mosque