9. On the mystic’s trail – Kedar-Badri

The first time I made a trip to Kedarnath and Badrinath it was with Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev in 2004. For 21 days more than 300 people followed Sadhguru all over the Himalayas from Haridwar, Rishikesh, to Kedarnath - Gangotri – Gomukh- Hemkund Sahib- Valley of Flowers and Badrinath. It was a life changing experience for me. The nostalgia of that trip beckoned me to do it again. This time Rajeev (it being the first time for him) and I did the trip and could manage just Kedar and Badri.

So once again we dropped in on our dear friend Rama Shankar Sharma in Dehradun, and from there started by hired car for our trip. The Garhwal Himalayas, the abode of the Gods, are criss-crossed with these beautiful rivers. The unbounded, gurgling and playful Alakhnanda, (meaning eternal joy), joins, at five different places, with Bhagirathi, Mandakini, Pinder, Nandakini and Dholi Ganga (all tributaries of the River Ganges). Together they form the mighty Ganga, revered and worshipped by the Hindus throughout India. These 5 confluences (called Prayag) are Devprayag, Rudraprayag, Karanprayag, Nandprayag, and Vishnuprayag. Did you know that every day lacs of people collect on the banks of the Ganga at Rishikesh, Haridwar and Varanasi to worship her – called the Ganga Arti? This has been going on, without a break, for thousands of years (Incredible India!). During my last trek we had halted at Rishikesh for a day and Sadhguru had been asked to perform the Arti. At dusk all of us went down to the river’s edge and Sadhguru performed this beautiful ritual of making a fire offering to the river. All of us floated little lit diyas (earthen lamps) in the river. It was the most moving and beautiful ceremony I have seen being performed. 

Rudraprayag

Our first halt after a short tea break at Rishikesh was at Rudraprayag. We had crossed Devprayag on the way. I remember Sadhguru saying that after crossing Kedarnath the Mandakini assimilates the qualities of Shiva within it and becomes serene and still. The Alakhnanda descends from the Badrinath hills and perhaps carries the essence of Vishnu as the playful and boundless Krishna, within itself. A distinct difference in the waters of the two rivers can be seen at the confluence – one green and quiet the other foaming and tumultuous.

The placid Mandakini joining the tumultous Alakhnanda

Seeing the rivers flowing at an arms distance and getting sprayed by ice cold water

                          see the video of Alakhnanda-Mandakini sangam

Guptkashi

We made a night halt at Guptkashi. Visited the ancient Ardhnarishwar and  Vishwanath Temples. The last time I was there we had had a wonderful sathsang with Sadhguru – so it was a really special place for me.

The cow is spouting Ganga water and the elephant Yamuna water  (another confluence, manmade this time) in the temple premises

                              See the video of Ganga-Yamuna sangam

Kedarnath

The next day we started our 14 km trek to Kedarnath. I had learnt in my earlier trip with Sadhguru that the trip is more important than the destination. Unless the frame of mind is correct and appropriate for the journey you will not feel the satisfaction you desire on its culmination. So with stick in hand, Shiva on my breath and Sadhguru in my heart I started the 14 km trek up the mountain from Gaurikund.

The trek

                                           video of the trek

At the risk of sounding weird I must say that the mountains in these parts though bereft of much vegetation seem to have a presence. The Kumaon hills are beautiful but the Garhwal hills are majestic and alive. Maybe it is the pilgrim’s mindset which makes one feel as if the mountain is taking you rather than you climbing the mountain.

                                                    Rudra Falls

                                             Mahadev Falls

Mahadev Falls appears to come down from heaven when seen from below

So we trudged on with a young boy carrying our back-pack, halting frequently at the adjoining tea stalls, and munching dry fruits to keep the energy levels up, the cheery sound of the Mandakini hurtling down, ever present. You meet and share a smile or a word of encouragement with fellow pilgrims and are recharged for a few more steps. You see extremely old people climbing alongside you and are encouraged to take a few more steps.

Sights like this keep you going! A Red Billed Blue Magpie

 
Ultimately you do reach and suddenly all the fatigue leaves your body and is replaced by this mild euphoria when you stand in front of the Kedarnath temple with the two snow clad peaks looming up behind it. I knew then why Adi Shankara had made the trip to Kedarnath and Badrinath to attain videha mukti ie. freedom from embodiment! Somehow once you have made it to Kedarnath, after an arduous trek, you feel completely separate to your body – exhilarated and blissed out while your body feels broken and fatigued.

Kedarnath looms against a backdrop of snow and clouds

The Kedarnath Peak

The temple at night

We took a walk around the perimeter and saw this little underground water source which spouts water at any sound – mostly people say “Shambhoo”.

                                 see the water spouting at any sound

 Adi Shankaracharya’s Samadhi Mandir is behind the Kedarnath Temple where Sadhguru had held a Sathsangh. Later he made us clean the outside of the temple by plucking weeds etc. So this time too I tried but it proved to be only symbolic.

We spent the night in a room behind the temple. A mouse chewed a shortcut to the dryfruits in my favourite bag. I think it nibbled my toe too, during the night.

Early next morning we were back on the same path after having been in and out of the temple at various times of the night having been given the privilege to participate in the special rituals of the temple by the Mahanta or head priest. For me, however, all was achieved during the trek itself.

Coming down is a relatively easy job for me but Rajeev’s knees seem to give way when descending (mine when ascending – you have heard about Jack Sprat and his wife!). So slowly we made our way back to Gaurikund and off to the second leg of our trip to Badrinath.

Some Legends, Some Facts

• Kedarnath is the northernmost Jyotirling, at a height of 3584 m above sea level.

• According to the Vayu Purana, Vishnu as Narayan came to earth for the good of mankind and landed at Badrinath, which at that time was the abode of Shiva. Vishnu requested Shiva to shift residence to Kedarnath instead, which Shiva did.

• Adi Shankaracharya attained Samadhi at Kedarnath at the age of 32 years. He appointed celibate Veera Shaiva priests as the Rawals (chief priests) of Kedarnath which tradition continues till date.

• The deity is shifted to Okhimath, 62 km towards Badrinath during the winter when Kedarnath is completely covered in snow.

• The temple opens on Akshay Tritiya (in May) each year and closes on Yama Dwitiya or Bhai Duj (October).

• There are hot springs in Gaurikund. Parvati is said to have attained Shiva there, hence the name.

Devprayag

The driver of our taxi got us to Badrinath by a shorter route through the lovely forests of Chamoli. This time we stopped at Devprayag to take some pictures.

Devprayag

Badrinath

Our Badrinath trip is dedicated to all the Babas we met there or heard about. But first the Neelkanth. The first time I saw the Neelkanth peak at sunrise I just stood in absolute wonder. I don’t think anything can match its beauty and majesty. I feel Shankara must have been similarly affected by the Sumeru and the Neelkantha peaks and therefore selected the two sites to set up the two Dhams.

The Neelkanth at sunrise

We first met Hanuman Baba, in his cave. He made coffee for us, on a kerosene stove, while we were all squeezed in his tiny cave. Then he touched Rajeev on his forehead and Rajeev swears that for the next 7 days the ‘Hanuman Chalisa’ was constantly echoing in his head! (he couldn’t recite it to save his life, otherwise).

Hanuman Baba in his cave

We climbed up the mountain to see the Buxawala Baba who is known to leave his body in a box for months together. He was not there and we found this sign outside his abode instead.

Then we went to meet Mouni Baba who had not spoken a word in the past 12 years. The innocence and simplicity of these seekers (some already enlightened) is what impressed me most. The clever and informed Mind is the biggest hindrance in the seeker’s path; these blessed souls have already managed to drop it.

Mouni Baba

Brahma Kamal being taken for sale(Read about)

The ubiquitous Ganga Tulsi. Herb with great medicinal qualities.

Mana

We visited Mana the last village of India on the China border at a height of 3118 m above sea level, and had tea at this tea stall.

Doesn't need a caption. He does brisk business.

 Beyond the mountains is China. Met a centurian (about a hundred years old) in the Tibetan village of Mana, who wanted to freshen up her face and clothes before we took her picture. She climbs down the mountain and works in the fields like everybody else.

A century's story behind that beautiful face

 

You will get to see the source of the elusive river Saraswati here.  Saraswati also appears at the Sangam in Allahabad!

The source of the river Saraswati

'Bheem Pathar' said to have been placed there by Bheem when the Pandava's were on their way to heaven- China?

Black Thrush

 

After a wonderful trip which was easy paced and as comfortable as a trip to these parts can be, we were back in Dehradun on the sixth day.

Some Legends, Some Facts

• The Badrinath temple is nestled between the Nar and the Narayan peaks which are shown as dwarpals (guards) alongside the temple doors too. Badrinath is at an altitude of 10276ft above sea level.

• It is said that Vishnu meditated here and Laxmi, his consort, took the form of a Berry (Badri) Tree. The tree is not there anymore but the name Badrinath has remained.

• The deity is a meditating Lord Vishnu  in Black stone.

• Then there is the legend of Ghanta Karn, a Shiva devotee, who hung large bells  over his ears so he would not hear the name of any other god and specially Vishnu. He sought salvation, when pleased with his devotion, Shiva granted him a boon. Shiva, however, told him that his salvation was in Vishnu’s hands. Ghanta Karn then single mindedly worshipped Vishnu and earned himself a place at Badrinath as the Lokpal (guardian deity) of the region.

With the Rawal.

• During the rise of Buddhism in India, the Badri idol was thrown into the Narad Kund nearby. Adi Shankaracharya retrieved and re-installed it. A Namboodiri Brahmin from Kerala is appointed, till date, as a Rawal (head priest). He is helped by local Vedpathis from the dibri community.

• Traditionally, one must do the Kedarnath yatra before Badrinath. If that is not possible they visit the temple of Adi Kedareshwar nearby first. (Protocol is followed by gods too). The present Rawalji told us that one starts the Shankaracharya’s Char Dham yatra with Rameshwaram in the south, Puri, Dwarka and last of all Badrinath.

• Just outside the Badrinath temple on the banks of the Alakhnanda is the holy Brahma Kapal Teerth where one can offer ‘pind daan’ to their ancestors. After this no other ‘shraadh’ is necessary.

• Just at the bottom of the temple are the hot springs named Tapt Kund. Devotees bathe here before entering the temple.

• 48 km from Badrinath is Joshimath, where in a cave (now called Shankaracharya’s cave) Adi Shankara had obtained enlightenment.

• During the winter the deity is shifted to Pandukeshwar, some 21 km away. The temple has had to be rebuilt a number of times as it is an avalanche prone area.

8. Exploring the Garhwal Hills

Landour and Mussoorie

I remember in school a friend of mine would spend her summer vacations in Mussoorie, every year, and talk about it the rest of the year. Rajeev, too, is rather nostalgic about his childhood vacations spent there.  I on the other hand managed to see it for the first time just a few years back. I feel quite the same when I am looking at these pictures today. There is something about Mussoorie! -  maybe it is the old world charm or the scenic beauty or because of its small size it feels so cosy and homely. The lovely houses some with funny warnings to nosy tourists and popular legends and stories around everything - all tend to add to the charm and enchantment of this little hill station.

The Mussoorie hills seen from Dehradun

Don't miss the joke in "NO TRESPASSING VIOLATORS WILL BE PROSECUTED"

                   (a grammatical omission can reverse the meaning)

We were staying right at the top in Landour cantt, where you have the Doordarshan Kendra with its landmark tower. We would walk down to the little shopping centre called ‘Char Dukan’ early in the morning, the mountain air crisp and a few rays of the morning sun breaking free through the mist and pine trees, adding a sparkle to the dew drops hanging from the pine needles. 

A monkey in the cold, outside our room asking to be let in :-<

   Winding mountain road

looking for birds of course!

Contrasting colours

Sometimes I saw a Treecreeper bird creeping up this tree but the camouflage is so good I couldn't take a picture in time but Rajeev got a video

pine cones in the making

We patronised Anil’s café out of the ‘Char Dukan’ ('four shops', of course there are many more now), for our morning cuppa while our breakfast of pancakes with maple syrup (or something equally interesting) was being prepared in front of us!

Anil's Cafe in 'Char Dukan'

Over breakfast we would decide which side to walk; - yes, you can see practically the whole of Landour and Mussoorie on foot. The first day we took the 4 km Circular walk (Rajeev says it was 3 km – well, it felt like 4 to me). You see these landmark sights along the way.

The Kellog's Memorial Church

'The Parsonage', the house of Victor Banerjee "rabid thespian" (self proclaimed)

This is the Sister’s Bazaar area, called so because some nuns who worked as nurses in the British hospital lived here. The dormitory can still be seen. Many famous people have their summer homes here, like Tom Alter, Pronnoy Roy, Dev Anand and Victor Banerjee. Rajeev is posing with this interesting fiery painting on the wall outside Victor Banerjee's house, said to have been made to remove a curse on the house! Adds to the romance of the place I guess. I found the warning “Beware, Rabid Thespian Inside” outside his house quite amusing but couldn’t have taken a picture without trespassing.

Rajeev with the 'fire goddess'

Outside the old Christian Cemetry which has graves dating back to the 1830s

We befriended this punk beauty queen on the way

Saw this blue thrush too

View of the snow clad peaks from Lal Tibba

While at Sister's Bazaar a visit to Prakash Brother's Store is a must. We picked up some home made Cheddar cheese (recipe passed down by the Sisters) and really relished the cinnamon doughnuts.

The next day we walked down to the Mall Road – extending from the Library Bazaar to Palace Cinema. It was a trip down memory lane for Rajeev and he was excited like a kid seeing a lion mural on the wall, a dilapidated hotel, the band stand taken over by homeless people etc.

I could barely keep him from climbing the lion as he did in childhood.

pleased as a punch!

The Band Stand

Mimicing The Mahatma

The landmark State Bank building, built in anticipation of Queen Victoria's visit

Royal emblem on the railing

Ropeway to Gunhill 400ft above The Mall

After this long walk climbing 4km up to Landour was not too welcome so we climbed into a Maruti van which ply point to point. I can tell you it was more thrilling than an auto ride in Delhi. We decided to stick to trekking.

The third day we took a bus to Kempty Falls from the Picture Palace Bus stand.

The Falls from far

The ropeway trip to the Falls

We are not part of that crowd. Vicarious fun is all we had!

Saw the lovely Blue Mormon butterfly but even after chasing them for hours couldn't get a picture.
One person without whose mention this post looked incomplete is Mr Ruskin Bond. Our wild-life enthusiast friend, Vishal tried to get an appointment from him, but he was unfortunately sick at the time. There's always a next time.

Dehradun

Spent a few days with our friends Mr and Mrs R.S. Sharma in Dehradun and got to see some interesting places.

The Forest Research Institute in Dehradun

The rings denote the age of the tree

Sahastradhara

The Robber's Cave or Guchhu Pani

Check out the above video of the Robber's Cave, where apparently robbers would hide after waylaying people. Today you see a butterfly and people having a blast in the water.

                       Tapkeshwar Temple, Dehradun. Online Darshan!

 Chakrata and Rajaji Forest

A couple of interesting overnight trips to the Rajaji Forest and Chakrata added spice to our stay in Dehradun. Trekking up 9 km on a mountain to Chakrata, with not another soul save the 2 of us was a terrific experience. We only met a cowherd on the way, looking for his wayward cattle. But the news of our approach  reached the caretaker of the Forest Rest House at the top of the hill, much before us. Modern technology, somehow, is redundant in these places.

Take a virtual trek up this beautiful path to Chakrata, with me.

Sunrise in Chakrata

               

     Listen to Rajeev waxing eloquent about the beautiful sunrise of Chakrata in the video above.

Few animal sightings in the Rajaji National Park

There's a stag in the distance

That is Yogi an orphan baby elephant, reared by the forest officials. He had a young boy as a mahout, both of them will grow up together - forever friends!

This wonderful experience left us wanting more. The next year we were back exploring the Himalayas, on a mystical journey of Kedarnath and Badrinath. That will require to be a separate post. Till then.........